
Tile stays damp in one corner even though nobody spilled anything there. A bedroom floor feels noticeably warmer underfoot in one spot. The meter keeps turning between visits and the bill shows it. We track slab leaks under Highland Village houses and condos to within inches, then lay out a spot repair against a full reroute so you pick with the facts in hand.
The city's own utility reports water hardness around seven grains per gallon — moderate by most scales, but steady mineral contact adds up over the decades that copper sits under a slab. Since most of Highland Village went up between 1984 and 2005, a large share of that under-slab copper has now spent close to forty years absorbing that wear, which is reason enough on its own for a pinhole to eventually open.
One distinction worth keeping straight: the city separately reports a total-dissolved-solids figure that runs noticeably higher than the hardness number, and the two aren't measuring the same thing. A high TDS reading on a water report doesn't automatically mean harder water — hardness is the number that actually correlates with copper wear.
None of that changes the first move, though. Before any concrete comes up, we bring acoustic listening gear and a thermal camera to mark the leak within a narrow radius, then talk through whether cutting the slab on the spot or bypassing the line overhead through the attic makes more sense for that particular house.

None of these alone is proof, but any two together are worth a call before the floor takes the damage.
Turn everything off, press an ear close to the slab or an adjoining wall, and listen for a few minutes. A faint, steady hiss under those conditions usually means water is still moving somewhere under the concrete.
A pinhole under the slab loses water continuously, day and night, without a single fixture showing symptoms. If usage habits haven't changed but the bill has, this is one of the more common explanations.
A hot-side slab leak transfers heat into the surrounding concrete. Barefoot in the early morning, before the floor has had a chance to equalize with the room, is often the easiest time to notice it.
When only the hot side loses pressure or volume, and the cold side behaves normally, that imbalance points toward the hot-side line under the slab specifically.
A leaking hot line under the slab forces the water heater to keep replacing water that never reaches a faucet. A utility closet that runs warmer than it used to, or a heater that cycles more often, is a related clue.
By the time grout starts failing or hardwood cups at the joints, moisture has usually been working on the slab for some time already — these tend to be later signs rather than early ones.
Nothing gets cut until the leak's exact position and the right repair path are both settled.
A pressure check on each side at the water heater identifies which line is losing pressure, which tells us where to concentrate the detection effort and whether one line or two would need attention if a reroute becomes the answer.
Ground microphones read the floor itself, a thermal camera scans the walls and slab for a heat signature, and a tracer gas pass on the isolated line fills in anything the first two miss. Between them, the leak is usually narrowed to about a foot-wide area.
One option opens a small section of slab, splices in new pipe at the failure point, and patches the concrete back — often the more affordable route when the surrounding copper is otherwise sound. The other abandons the slab line for good and runs new PEX overhead through the attic, which tends to make sense when the rest of the copper is the same age and due to follow.
A spot fix means a clean saw-cut, an exposed splice, and a concrete patch. A reroute means new PEX-A strung through the attic, tied in above the fixtures, with the old slab run capped and left in place.
The repaired line holds pressure for fifteen minutes while you watch the gauge. Photos from the locate, the repair itself, and the final pressure test go with you as a record of the work.
The better path depends on the copper's age, how many bathrooms tie into that line, and how much of the slab is finished flooring.
A narrow cut exposes just the failed section, a new fitting closes the gap, and the concrete goes back over it. Reasonable when the rest of that copper run still has life left in it.
The failed slab run is left in place and abandoned, while a fresh PEX-A line travels through the attic and ties in above the fixtures instead.
The story changes street to street depending on when the copper went in.
Built out mostly from 1992 to 2004 along the lake, this area's original copper has now logged three decades or more against the city's water, a common source of pinhole slab leaks at that age.
1990s homes on lots near a third of an acre often run slab copper a longer distance to serve multiple bathrooms, which usually adds a bit more acoustic work to narrow a leak to one segment.
With construction going back to the 1970s near the historic ranch land it's named for, this area holds some of the oldest under-slab copper in the city, and it's often a stronger candidate for an overhead reroute than a repeat patch.
A handful of homes here date to 1974 on lots around 0.4 acres, putting this among the oldest supply-line copper in Highland Village and a fair case for weighing a full reroute rather than a series of one-off repairs.
Waterfront homes from the 1990s and 2000s sometimes tie outdoor kitchens or dock plumbing into the same slab system, which is worth flagging before settling on a repair method.
Smaller infill construction filled this corridor in after the city's main growth years, so copper age varies house to house here and gets checked individually rather than assumed from the block.

Labor on every slab leak repair is warrantied, and if the fix itself fails, we return and correct it at no charge. If a different section of the same aging copper fails down the road, that's the exact risk we'd have flagged at the time of the quote — often the reason a reroute was suggested in the first place.
This is a family-owned shop, licensed through the Texas State Board of Plumbing Examiners and carrying insurance. Trucks run out of The Colony, putting most Highland Village addresses roughly 20 to 25 minutes away under normal traffic, and we schedule same-day, every day of the week, between 8 in the morning and 6 at night.
A slab leak often isn't the only place aging copper shows up. We're glad to talk through the sewer line, the water heater, or a broader repipe while a truck is already at the house in Highland Village.

Trenchless replacement for the aging laterals across Highland Village's older runs — camera first, quote in writing, minimal yard damage.

Acoustic, thermal, and pressure testing to pinpoint hidden leaks in Highland Village slab and wall lines without tearing into finishes.

Licensed install, repair, and pressure-testing for Highland Village homes — every line signed off to Texas code and Atmos requirements.

Full-clear service and camera confirmation for the drains under Highland Village's neighborhoods.

Repair, flush, and replacement of tank units — including attic and garage heaters common to Highland Village homes.

Install, service, and annual descaling — Highland Village's hard tap water eats tankless heat exchangers without it.

same-day, 7 days a week response across Highland Village for burst pipes, heater failures, and main-line backups.

High-pressure cleaning that clears scale, grease, and roots from Highland Village's lateral runs — full-diameter, lasting clean.

Cartridge, stem, and full-fixture replacement for Highland Village kitchens and bathrooms — hard-water-ready parts stocked on the truck.

Rebuilds, wax-ring resets, flange repairs, and full replacements — the running toilets and rocking bowls in Highland Village homes.

Jam clearing, leaking-unit swaps, and quiet 3/4 HP upgrades for Highland Village kitchens — same-visit install.
Electronic locating, a plain comparison of repair versus reroute, and no concrete opened until we're sure where the leak is. Book a visit.